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Pandora's Box ....

GT/CS S Code

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 26, 2007
Messages
912
Location
Victoria, B.C., Canada
"Abandon all hope ye who enter into basic repairs on 40 year old classic cars ...."
:eek:
Well, we started with the very best of intentions (of course), and due to some recent electrical problems we had decided to install a completely new "Painless" wiring harness in our 68 "S" code in time for our road trip to Bellevue, Washington for the Northwest Mustang Roundup in July. I bought the proper harness and we picked the recent holiday weekend to do the job, as then I'd have three consecutive days to help my mechanic friend Chris to do the work. As a bonus my wife would be away for a two week holiday trip to Maui with three of her girlfriends, so we could concentrate on the job at hand while she was out of town. Sounds too good to be true, and of course it was.
It started off badly when we started to strip out the interior and discovered that coolant had soaked into the carpeting on the passenger side. The culprit, ... a blown heater core leaking coolant down the firewall.
OK, so we'll strip out the heater box and rebuild it at the same time. So, we ordered a new core, and a heater box seal kit, and then we'll media blast the interior of the rusty box and repaint it so that it will be completely rebuilt. Of course the 40 year old hardboard plenum box is toast too, so we'll order a new replacement for the toasted one. Might as well replace all the heater hoses too while we're at it, and both of the radiator hoses too so that it is all fresh.
Once the interior was stripped out we discover that there were rust pinholes in the front floorboards, and with a further look found that the torque boxes were also in fairly tough shape too. OK order two new replacement torque boxes and front replacement patch panels for both of the front floors. What the heck, we've already got the car half apart anyway, so let's do it now while it's all readily accessible, right?
Next, strip out the rest of the dash to access the old wiring harness and remove it. We discovered that we also need to replace a set of broken heater control cables and to deal with some issues with the existing dash pod and gauges. Order those needed parts.
We started comparing the old wiring harness with the new "Painless" harness and there are some differences between the two? What? Hmmm? OK, dig through the spare parts that came with the car and discover that the original harness has been removed at some point and replaced with a different harness (a 67 ?), but at least the old original harness is still there. Remove all the connectors from the old harness to install on the new "Painless" harness so that stock Ford components will "plug in" if we ever need to replace anything in the electrics again.
Remove the door panels in preparation of the floorboard welding work, and discover that there are some missing parts in the driver's side window mechanism, and that the shaft for the door handle is mostly stripped out and holding by about 1/2 a thread. OK. Order some more replacement parts .... and what the heck, a pair of new black door panels since the old ones are a bit "tatty", and the parts that are missing from the remote driver's side mirror adjuster, and while you're at it new brake, clutch, and accellerator pads since they're worn out too.
While we're at it, we might as well order a bushing kit for the pedal shaft assembly too, since they're worn out and the pedals are fairly sloppy on the shaft.
Then due to the "haywire" wiring modifications by a previous owner, a new coil to replace the old one, and a new starter solenoid, a new oil pressure sensor, and a new water temperature sensor too.
Then, since the front bucket seats are out of the car anyway, let's recover them since they have a few tears and replace the cushions since they are 40 years old after all.
Then, since the interior is stripped out for the rest of the work, let's order a brand new headliner to replace the old tatty one too, and a new dome light bezel and lens to replace the old deteriorated one.
What the heck, let's order new scuff plates too, since those old ones are scratched and dented, and also a new battery tray to replace the old rusty one from a previous battery that leaked acid onto it and corroded it up badly.
I guess we should install an export brace to go along with the existing Monte Carlo bar too, to tiddle things up under the hood and improve the handling.
So, about this Wednesday, our poor "stripped out" car will finally head out to the body shop, have the front floor patch panels and new torque boxes installed, have the new headliner installed, have the new set of restored GT chrome wheels installed to replace the current mag wheels, have the new rolled tip GT exhausts installed, and have the metal interior door panels sprayed black.
When it finally gets back home, we'll attack the re-installation of the new and improved "Painless" wiring harness, the rebuilt gauges and dash pod, the rebuilt heater box and controls, the rebuilt interior and seats, and install the new interior trim pieces along with the remaining old parts still in good condition.
Then we'll deal with the brake proportioning valve that has tripped and is no longer centred .... oh, did I forget to mention that we discovered that too?
... and we'll re-install the missing choke plate and choke controls that were missing from the carb too! (Again, the good news is that I actually had the missing parts in my personal stash of spare carb parts and pieces ....)
Once it's all reassembled and back in one piece, we'll do some basic engine tuning and give the front and rear brakes a once over to check their general condition just to be safe.
At that point we should be all finished for now, and ready for the road trip to Bellevue in July ... but I'd rather have found out about all these "hidden" problems now and take care of them while the car is apart for the basic wiring job, rather than tear it down multiple times in future and fix them one at a time. Worse yet, we could have had a major break down on the road and worse yet, a major "out of town" break down!
I cannot possibly thank my good friend and mechanic "Chris" or my body and paint man "Kevin" nearly enough for all their help and patience in dealing with "the never ending repair job" of the last few weeks.
By the way, the "Painless" wiring harness is very high quality and was worth every cent for the peace of mind a brand new up to date system will give us.
... but the next time you plan to do ONE "simple' job on your 40 year old car, and hope to get it all done over a three day holiday weekend, don't be at all surprised if 'Mr. Murphy" arrives and throws a wrench right in the middle of it all!
We'll keep you posted as to the final results over the next few weeks, but at this point it appears that I'll have spent considerably more on our car in the last two weeks on replacement parts and labour than my wife spent on her entire two week holiday trip to Maui with her girlfriends!
:rolleyes:
We'll see some of you soon down in Bellevue, Washington in July!
:cool:
 

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rvrtrash

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 25, 2003
Messages
3,649
That's exactly why I tend to buy projects and rebuild them from the ground up. You end up doing that anyway, a lot of times.

Steve
 

gazrox

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 17, 2007
Messages
182
If there's one thing that I've learned, its "Murphy was a *!*&*% optimist!"
 

Doug

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 23, 2007
Messages
558
Location
Valencia, California
Thanks for writing my cars life - I could cut and paste my name on your weekend story but add 6 months to it and it would be the same. I ended up trying to fix the clock and nearly replaced half the car. Good luck with your project.
 
OP
OP
GT/CS S Code

GT/CS S Code

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 26, 2007
Messages
912
Location
Victoria, B.C., Canada
Thaks guys ...

... glad to hear that we're not alone on this one, and that this is much more common than expected!
:smile:
As my best friend has aways said: "It's only money, just spend it and then go out and make some more!"
:wink:
 

cnassif

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 18, 2008
Messages
96
Location
Chula Vista, CA
You have certainly convinced me to rebuild mine completely from the ground up. It just doesn't sound worth it to do it any other way.

Sorry for the hassle, thanks for the lesson.
 

J.Bart

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 12, 2003
Messages
800
did your wife wonder where your old gt/cs went? and ask how much this nice one cost you? lol
 

clubpro

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 24, 2003
Messages
665
Just a reminder to all of you who are considering any type of restoration. You can buy all of your parts at cost + 10% if you order them from my company. The prices on my website www.RnRclassics.net are not the prices that you will pay. Just send me a list of parts that you will need and I will send you the cost + shipping. If you don't see what you need on my site look at the Scott Drake website and then give me the part number and I will get you the price.

Cheers,

Ron
 
OP
OP
GT/CS S Code

GT/CS S Code

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 26, 2007
Messages
912
Location
Victoria, B.C., Canada
Rebuild update ...

Well, the "repair and rebuild' of our "S" code GT/CS continues.
I talked to my body and paint man today, and when he got the floorboards out to do the torque boxes the frame rails were very rough too, so now they were being rebuilt today too. The exhaust and the wheels are done, but with luck the cutting and welding work will be done by Friday as he's booked his headliner expert to install ours that day. With luck the rest of the needed work will be done shortly, which still leaves a VERY short time for my mechanic friend and I to re-assemble the wiring harness and interior and get it running again. We were really hoping to attend the Northwest Mustang Roundup in Bellvue starting on the 17th of July, but it'll depend on whether the car is ready in time or not ....
We'll keep you posted!
 
OP
OP
GT/CS S Code

GT/CS S Code

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 26, 2007
Messages
912
Location
Victoria, B.C., Canada
The work continues ...

Well, still no joy in getting the car back together yet, but it is progressing well. No sense doing anything in "half measures", so we'll do it all right and only once!
IF the car gets back here from the body shop about mid next week, and IF my mechanic friend can schedule some extra time in the next two weeks to help me out, we should JUST make the Northwest Mustang Roundup in Bellevue, Washington in July. Whew!
My dear wife must be getting a bit frustrated about it all though. As we were driving back from a quick trip to the body shop to see how it is all progressing this morning, she commented that maybe we could sell the Mustang GT/CS and buy her a Mazda Miata convertible .....
SAY WHAT! ????
She'd better be joking .... :mad:
:wink:
 

Mustanglvr

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 4, 2004
Messages
3,258
Did you find out yet that you have to take the front and back windows out to replace the headliner?
Been there, done that.
 

joedls

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 12, 2005
Messages
1,980
Location
Lake Forest, CA
I decided to put my 65 convertible in the paintshop for a quick paintjob. I finally finished about a year later and replaced just about every piece of sheetmetal on the car, the whole drivetrain, the suspension, interior, convertible top. Once I got started, I just couldn't stop until it was right.
 

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Doug

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 23, 2007
Messages
558
Location
Valencia, California
Once I got started, I just couldn't stop until it was right.

Does these cars (or any special car) is like doing drugs once you start it's hard to stop. Never have done drugs I don't know whats it like to stop; but I know that I don't think that I could or want to stop playing with cars. Thankfully I have a wife who is just outstanding and supports my "addiction".
 
OP
OP
GT/CS S Code

GT/CS S Code

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 26, 2007
Messages
912
Location
Victoria, B.C., Canada
Headliner installation tips .... and future projects!

Oh yeah, I talked to a couple of people about the proper way to do the headliner installation first, and the only right way to do it is to pull the front and rear glass out completely to ensure that the ends of the new headliner are 'tucked under" properly and then they won't "shrink back" when it tightens up. The good news is that the interior is already "gutted' anyway to do all the other work, so the headliner is being done properly with the glass out.
We still have a few other small details to take care of when we get it back home, but the repair list is getting shorter by the day .... thank goodness!
:wink:
PS: We haven't even gotten to my original long term project yet, which is my 65 Mustang Fastback that I'm rebuilding into a tribute GT-350 Shelby clone. I bought it in 1980, drove it for the first three years as it was, and then completely disassembled it into a bare shell, did 3/4 of the body work and got it into primer, ... which is how it has been sitting for the last 25 years! I've had most of the replacement parts for the last 20 years, and they're all still sitting new in boxes tucked away. The driveline is completely rebuilt front to rear, and I have a complete Global West negative roll kit with tubular A-arms for the front end, and stiffer Global West springs for the rear. The Global West frame sub-connectors are already installed underneath to stiffen the body to help handle the 300+ hp Shelby clone 289 engine. After our red GT/CS is completed, the original 65 Mustang project is next on the priority list .... I have promised myself on that one!
:rolleyes:
Here are some shots of when we trailered it out of our garage and took it out to the same body and paint shop in July of 2005. It's still out there waiting to be completed, and is currently sitting about 20 yards away from our red GT/CS in one of the other nearby shops! With any luck it will end up looking exactly like the beautiful GT-350 Shelby shown in the last photo, as I have the exact same wheels (in 16x8's), an original Shelby hood, and the "oil cooler opening" front valence that uses the original front bumper. It'll be the same colour scheme too of course.
Like so many others, I've wanted to own an original Shelby all of my life, but sadly I just can't justify the cost of the "real deal", so had to settle for a tribute car instead. Sigh ....
:embarass:
 

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rvrtrash

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 25, 2003
Messages
3,649
So you probably don't want to hear that in 1977 I had a chance to buy a 1965 GT350R (1 of 35) for $6,000 and someone else beat me to it, do you.

Or the 1970 Boss 429 for $2,000 that I missed because the owner was a friend of my EX-girlfriend, and I didn't hear it was for sale before it went bye-bye.

Or maybe---no, now I'm just being mean. :icon_evil

Steve
 
OP
OP
GT/CS S Code

GT/CS S Code

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 26, 2007
Messages
912
Location
Victoria, B.C., Canada
Buyer's regret ....

Yeah Steve, I hear ya ...
In 1980 just before I bought this 289 4V 2+2 to drive and then rebuild I called a gent in Portland, Oregon that was selling a '66 GT-350 Hertz model in original condition, running but needing restoration. He was asking $7,500.00 at the time, and I was going to offer him $7,000.00 to see if he would bite. When I called him he had sold it 15 minutes earlier .... for $7,000.00 US.
A few weeks later I drove to Seattle, Washington and bought my 65 2+2 for $3,200.00. I had probably looked at 50 other similar cars that were basket cases or "rust buckets" and this car was solid and running fine, so it got the nod.
Always wished that I'd found another original Shelby though. Who knows, it might still happen if I can just win the Lotto 649!
Such is life ....
:wink:
PS: I sold my '66 Cylone GT 390 4V 4 speed car years ago (Cragars and all) and bought a '75 Toyota Land Cruiser in my "had to have a 4x4" days .... I regret that one too!
Then of course I sold my '66 Falcon Sports Coupe with the 289 4V 4 speed before that .... and for no good reason .... just wanted a "change" of wheels!
Sigh ....
I'm gonna keep these two Mustangs though, and they'll bury me in ONE of them ..... (probably the Fastback since I've owned it longest!)
:grin:
 

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OP
OP
GT/CS S Code

GT/CS S Code

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 26, 2007
Messages
912
Location
Victoria, B.C., Canada
Progress report ....

Well, I drove out after work today to see the car at the body shop and they have most of the work completed now. They had to replace both front torque boxes, both front floorpans, and rebuild the front frame rails up to the A-arms! In addition, when they were installing the GT exhaust tips they discovered that the gas tank had been hit fairly hard at some point and was cracked. Looking inside the tank, they found some major rust issues and the sending unit was also badly rust corroded. So now we've also replaced the gas tank and sending unit with new parts. They also stripped the underside of the hood and repainted it, as it was rusted and paint bubbled from battery acid issues on the passenger's side. We replaced the corroded battery tray with a new replacement unit at the same time. While the hood was off we also installed an export brace to help stiffen the front end a bit more. After all the welding was finished in the cockpit, the front and rear glass was removed, and a new black headliner was installed. The glass was just going back in when I arrived at the shop tonight, and the car should be back here at the house sometime tomorrow morning. My mechanic and I will start re-assembling the interior and doing a bit more mechanical work this weekend and next. Then with some luck it will be back together, road tested, and finally ready for a long anticipated trip to Bellevue, Washington on the 17th!I'll try to post some new photos of the car's progress in the morning after it arrives ....
 

rvrtrash

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 25, 2003
Messages
3,649
If it's not too much trouble, and if you have an ohmmeter, could you measure the resistance between the fuel tank sender and the tank, with no gas in the car. I'm curious because many of us, myself included, have inaccurate gas gauges and it would give me some info to help troubleshoot.

Steve
 
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