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1968 Need Feedback on Restoration Plans - Be Gentle

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cnassif

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 18, 2008
Messages
96
Location
Chula Vista, CA
I am a MCA concours judge so you know where my personal allegiances are. I helped both of my boys build 67 & 68 driver cars. They were all over the map on color changes. I encoraged them to keep their orignial colors or at least choose a Mustang color. In the end they kept the orignial color but doubled the grain size of the metalic. The results were beautiful. Craig's 67 is clear water aqua not quite gulfstream aqua but close. I will post a picture of it. In the end do what makes YOU HAPPY! Marty

Along that thread, were you pleased with the paint? I was considering making it more metallic or pearl, regardless of the color.

On a quick note, I have an MCA question. I had to replace some of the metal on my car with new metal. Not sure how they would blend the seam for the floor pans from underneath so I would assume that would be docked points. Is that true?
 

Ruppstang

Well-known member
Joined
May 22, 2009
Messages
3,032
Cristian,
I am very happy with the paint on both their cars and the modifications they they did as well. My older son Travis is 6-5 so we used a 69 seat back with head rests. I wished we would have shortened the seat pedestals to give him a bit more head room. Everything that we did was a bolt on so we can go back. The cars were fun to build not having to worry about every nut and bolt being correct.
Yes if you can see that a repair has been made then expect a point or two deduction. The best repair in any case is to replace the whole panel but I under stand on the floor pan some times a small repair is more cost effective. If you choose the latter I would recommend a butt joint on the repair, weld and grind. If good workmanship is used it is hard to tell. Also do not for get to replace the drips in the red oxide. Marty
 

J.Bart

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 12, 2003
Messages
800
I have a Highland Green C-Code that I have nearly completed all the metal work on. Next is body work and paint. I have the new GT/CS Recognition guide and it is incredibly thorough and a beauty. My name isn't in the registry either but I get to own the car so I'm not too worried about it.

First and foremost, I want to DRIVE this car on a daily basis and I don't have $50k to put into it. That being said, I'm confused about what to do when restoring it. As Paul notes on page 135 of his book, the "daily driver" represents most of us GT/CS owners. I do not have the original engine for safety am planning on adding disc brakes, use newer AC, and big crate motor of some kind. I will probably also be converting it from automatic to manual. Many of you out there may already be cringing but I would like my restomod to be safe and perform.

I am doing a complete "frame off" rotisserie clean up and then going to paint. I would like your feedback on my choices.
Choice 1: Paint it the original Highland Green (not a lot of pop to this color)
Choice 2: Paint it another GT/CS color
Choice 3: Paint it a custom color to highlight its restomod / custom status.

Understanding that my goal is not resale value but it is to drive and enjoy for myself for years to come, what are your thoughts?

P.S. For the purists out there who have restored theirs to original, I commend you all. After reading what goes into every hose clamp and part to make sure its concourse correct, I commend each and every one of you. Especially knowing that you had to gather all this information before the book came out. Well done. I just would feel bad to drive it after doing all that work and I really, really want to drive it. Go easy on me.


bear in mind, bright colors, or vividly contrasting colors can be seen by officers of the law for miles. food for thought if you have a heavy foot like me.
and 3m clear bra on the front does protect the car from rock chips. something is needed for driven cars
 
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cnassif

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 18, 2008
Messages
96
Location
Chula Vista, CA
bear in mind, bright colors, or vividly contrasting colors can be seen by officers of the law for miles. food for thought if you have a heavy foot like me.
and 3m clear bra on the front does protect the car from rock chips. something is needed for driven cars

Will keep that in mind when I end up speeding down Highway 5.
 

p51

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 2, 2005
Messages
1,025
Location
NorCal
My $0.03 (adjusted for inflation) :wink:

Why not keep it highland green and, since its really a restomod, go the extra step and make a Green Hornet.

Also, if you make it a manual put in a 5-speed.
 
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cnassif

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 18, 2008
Messages
96
Location
Chula Vista, CA
I've looked through almost all of the galleries and garages and have been unable to find many pictures of the underside of the cars. That being said, I was wondering how many people painted theirs the correct Red Oxide vs. Satin Black. Would love to hear the pros and cons to each. The only think I don't like about it the Red Oxide is it looks an awful lot like rusted metal.
 

Ruppstang

Well-known member
Joined
May 22, 2009
Messages
3,032
There was a resent thread here about the red oxide. There were several differnt shades of it. Can you find a good spot left under your car? San Jose cars did not use black but if you are restomoding the car it does not make any difference. Marty
 

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