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Old 06/03/2014, 11:03 AM   #5
robert campbell
My Car Details
 

Location: Bremerton Washington
Joined: Apr 07
Posts: 3,646

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Based on bucks sometimes the full meal deal is out of reach. You have your car down to parade rest and have installed some items. When I did my GNS I had all the panels off, the windows out of the doors and body, and no interior. Of course fenders, hood, doors, trunk lid and end caps off, and all trim. A rolling shell with a steering column and suspension and brakes including an "e" brake.

If you are comfortable with the fitment of everything when you took it apart, it can go back together very nice. Be aware of repop fenders and such. They need extensive fitment before you paint them. But if you have original Ford stuff it should work just fine. The side scoops and the end caps should be fitted to the car a bit before paint so send them with the rolling shell.

The hood, the fenders, the trunk lid, and the front and rear valance can and should be painted off the car. A lot of paint shops like to do this as it minimizes the time in the paint booth for the rolling shell.

Once back you can detail the engine area and address any overspray issues. Then the sequence in my mind is:

1. Land your rebuilt or known engine and tranny. Ensure all brake work is done such as bleeding and such BEFORE you land engine.

2. Address and install all the wiring in the dash and the engine and headlights and taillights.

3. Assemble the dash enough to test the wiring to all components. With a driveline in you can install a radiator, some temp exhaust, and test fire the engine and even rock engine in and out of gear. Heck you can install a driver seat and take it for a windy cruise with no windshield!! Not to fast as you more than likely have no front end alignment!!

4. Once all engine and tranny issues are sorted out and you are comfortable, you are ready for headliner, and then the windshield and rear window. Then install the trim and gaskets for the door and rear quarter windows.

5. Now you are ready for the doors. Assemble the windows, the channels, and the regulators in the doors off the car. Install rear quarter windows and regulators. No door or interior panels yet.

6. NEW DOOR HINGES or minimum rebuilt ones. With the front fenders off it is so much easier to align the doors. Get them back as far as you can to the door jam and the wing windows tight as you can. This where patience and attention to detail is so critical. The wing windows tip in and out. The rear windows tip forward and backward. The rear window to door window gap is critical. The new weather strip on the door itself is fighting you. Fuss fuss and fuss so more. Once satisfied you must then carefully mock up the front fenders. alignment and close gaps. Then mock up the hood. Can you get the fenders in and align those gaps to you liking. Ok, now you are done with what I think is the hardest part.

7. I would remove the hood, you can put the beltline and felt in the doors, and set the bottoming stops for the windows. Lube those window channels up as best you can. Once you put the fenders on for good, the side stripes will be later and you will hate yourself if the doors or fender move later!!

From here in it is basic assembly. As Neil and Marty said "interior last"!! To cut a buck on my car I kinda had ok bumpers and other easy to remove trim. They can be freshened up later.

The trick is if you are real satisfied with the current structure of the car. Blasting will reveal all evils. Sounds like you have a strong platform, and there is nothing wrong with not doing a full rotisserie job if you do your homework.

Rob
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