Thread: Engine Question
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Old 04/27/2005, 10:58 AM   #15
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Location: Conifer, Colorado
Joined: Aug 04
eBay: coniferhi
Posts: 159

Re:Engine Question

Casey, I agree with Steve the chance of the chain slipping back to its original position is not likely. The cam and the crank would be out of alignment and there is little chance of these again being in their proper alignment without taking the chain off and actually moving them into position. You will see the alignment marks if you decide it is the chain and remove the cover.

How was the balancer...good condition?

Certainly check the ignition prior to getting into the chain.

A simple way to see if the valves are closing at TDC or just before is to remove the No. 1 plug and put your thumb over the hole. Remove the cap and note the position of the No 1 wire. Jog the engine and when the rotor comes around to the No 1 wire position your thumb will feel the pressure of the piston coming up with valves closed. It may take 2 full rotations to check this because one rotation will be exhaust and that valve will be open, therefore no pressure as the piston comes up. I have used this on many occasions to check the valve timing.

The HCS I purchased from Bish lost 2 teeth and had very similar symptoms to your car. I did this test and found I was getting pressure at the hole way prior to ingnition with no way to adjust the distributor. I then found two broken teeth on the factory original nylon gear. New timing set and the car runs smooth and is very reponsive. I believe the teeth boke when I retuned for altitude after bringing the car back to Colorado from Michigan. Sometimes changes in the timing will stress old parts and break the weakest link. The teeth of the cam timing gear are designed to be the weakest link.

You can purchase a push button starter with cable from the auto parts store so you can do all the jogging from under the hood. (disconnect the coil wire).
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