Thread: [1968] Changing oil pan gasket
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Old 08/05/2009, 10:12 AM   #13
robert campbell
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Location: Bremerton Washington
Joined: Apr 07
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Originally Posted by franklinair View Post
You need the cork pan gaskets and the two neoprene seals for the front & rear crankshaft mentioned by Cougar above. Negative on the valve cover gaskets, unless they are giving you a problem (leaking).

I forgot to mention, I use RTV or 3M BLUE sealant for the pan gasket, Form-A-Gasket (a black, gooey concoction) for the crankshaft seals. For the crankshaft seals, coat the pan area generously and put the seals in place. Any overage can be wiped clean with a rag & lacquer thinner.

(I think, as a gesture of comradeship, Rob should come up there & do this job- with Amy as his assistant)

Rob would love to go!! Neil, get a plane and pick me up at the Bremerton National airport!!!

I am not a huge cork fan. FELPRO premium gaskets is what I like. But cork has worked for years.

Of note in Neilís procedure. When you get the pan gasket set with the rubber saddle seals you will note that the cork gasket has a small tab that is intended to slip into a lsot on the rubber saddle seals that insert in the rear main cap and the bottom of the timing cover. When doing this in the car, I install the rubber saddle seals first with the goo that Neil uses. But I use clean off the bottom of the block with a lacquer thinner, or some other oil removing product to get a clean surface. Then I use 3M weather strip cement to glue the gasket to the bottom of the block and insert the tabs into the slot in the rubber seal.

As Cougar said use a small piece of wood to back up the pan flange and hammer the holes that may have puckered up over the years flat again. This will assist in a more uniform squeeze on the pan.

Then I put a small bead of RTV (1/4 diameter max) in the center of the pan surface that mates to the gasket. It squeezes both directions. Into the pan and the outside and if you apply too much, I have seen it fall off into the pan and plug the oil pump pick up screen. Not very often, but I have seen a lot of engines with pieces of RTV in the pans.

Then while laying under the car I put a small glob of RTV in the area where the pan gasket tab sticks into the rubber saddle seal.. This is an area prone to leak. Make sure that you do this at once while the pan rail RTV is still wet.

Of note, I have four ľ inch studs that I screw into four of the pan holes to ensure it goes straight up without moving around as it touches the globs in the tab area. You will understand why if you do it by yourself. It is 3 handed affair under there!! Wow I worked in a rhyme! You can even use a couple ľ 20 nuts to squeeze it up and the remove the studs when you are done tightening.

This is anal and Neilís procedure works well.

Of note, ďanal robĒ always chases all the pan bolt holes to ensure they are clean and do not bind up before tightening the pan to the gasket.

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