Thread: [1968] Changing oil pan gasket
View Single Post
Old 08/04/2009, 02:37 PM   #4
robert campbell
My Car Details
 

Location: Bremerton Washington
Joined: Apr 07
Posts: 3,677

My Garage
Cory is right on. Completely clean the engine with simple green or gently at you local car wash. Take a floor jack and jack stands and pick a hot day, get under the car and clean clean clean.

Bring her back home and ensure she is dry. Put a fresh cardboard under here and determine if the leak is near the front or the back of the oil pan by location of the drip. Sometimes on one side more than the other.

Now check some easy areas.

The 4 corners of the intake manifold where the valley surface of the block meets the heads are famous leakers. Front corners puddle on the timing case covers.

If the above is dry, the try to determine if it is the seal for the vibration damper or the seal for the pan to the timing cover. Either one forces you to remove the pan, but if it is the seal for the damper, you will need to remove the pan to get the best seal on the timing cover. So if you do the pan and it does not stop, you now get to do the pan over again.

Pan will drop right off if you remove the cross member and drop the idler arm to lower the steering drag link.

Oil pump is more than likely just fine if you have good pressure now. A plugged oil pump pick up screen is the death of many a small block. The screen plugs and then the oil is forced through a small hole in the middle of the screen. Pump tries to digest a large chunk of gunk and it twists the oil pump drive shaft and breaks it. Engine is still running just fine, but pump stopped. If you do not have a warning (idiot) light, you may not notice zero oil pressure until way to late. Crank-o and rod-o bearings say by-o!!!

Rob
robert campbell is offline   Reply With Quote